South America is officially a pain in the ass. The more you see, the more you have to see. I’ve been here almost two years now and my ‘To Do’ list is growing by the day: Go to the Guyanas, Uruguay, Paraguay; see more of Bolivia, more of Venezuela; explore more of Argentina, Brazil; go […]
February 1, 2012
People sometimes ask me why I never used to use photographs on my blog. They’re right – it was always a case of one, or none when it comes to pictures – although nowadays I am much better. Perhaps I was lazy or perhaps I suspected that if a photograph really does tell a 1,000 […]
April 12, 2011
“If ever there is a time to have a functional boat, this is probably it,” my cousin’s husband, Simon, remarked drily as we crossed the river in our mouldy wooden vessel. It was rainy season in the Amazon and much of the forest was flooded. There we were, rowing into that dark green abyss having […]
January 20, 2011
Latin men always ask the same question. “How old are you honey?” Well, I’m 28 and I refuse to lie. “Too old for you sweetheart,” I should probably reply, because I’ve noticed a rather disturbing trend in my trip around Peru and Bolivia. You may remember the tale of my 24-year-old tour guide. He almost […]
January 14, 2011
“And who was President before that?” I repeated. It was a brilliantly sunny day but I was weak, hungover and slightly sad. It was my last day in Cusco and I had spent the afternoon saying inwardly emotional goodbyes to this gorgeous city whilst lazing in the square with my book. Except a dirty, skinny […]
January 14, 2011
I was about to climb into the shower when I heard the knock at my hotel room. “For goodness sake,” I grumbled. It had taken us three hours to climb out of the Colca Canyon, near Arequipa. I was cold, tired and more than a little damp from the drizzle. I yanked the door open […]
January 14, 2011
“Where are you girls going?” a woman asked. The bus was packed and rattling along in the velvet darkness of the Sacred Valley. “Chinchero,” Isabel replied confidently. There was a loud cry and the bus lurched to a halt. “We’ve just passed it,” the woman said, looking worried. “You’re the only people going there. The […]
January 14, 2011
“That animal is spooky,” I muttered to my friend Isabel, as we climbed a narrow cobbled street behind Cusco’s main plaza. It was early and the dog was a skinny brown-and-white stray. He had attached himself to us in the square, tail wagging furiously. He had walked beside us until we reached the road, where […]
January 14, 2011
“Stay there, I’m going to ask them this time,” the taxi driver instructed, as we parked outside our fourth hostel in Miraflores, Lima. I slumped in the back seat. I was so shattered from the overnight bus, I hadn’t thought Peru’s capital would be so full of pre-Christmas travellers. The driver returned. “No rooms there,” […]
January 14, 2011
“Why don’t you sit next to me?” the middle-aged bus driver grinned as I hauled my rucksac onto the Huanchaco bus destined for Trujillo. I looked at him. I looked at the deserted bus. “Fine,” I agreed, climbing into the conductor’s seat. There was no point arguing. I had to take this bus to the […]
April 6, 2012
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