Sunshine in Santiago. Salsa and street art in Valparaiso. Volcanoes, hot springs and cycling in Pucon. When I arrived on Chiloé island, I was already living the Chilean good life. The air was fresh, the skies were blue and there seemed to be a hot chocolate or a glass of red wine around every corner.… [Read more…]
February 12, 2012
Last time I tried to climb a volcano, I swore I would never again climb so much as a flight of stairs. My reaction to the altitude was unexpected at best. I couldn’t walk 20 steps without stopping. My calves stopped working and I couldn’t breathe. When I eventually made it to the edge of… [Read more…]
February 11, 2012
I once rolled my ankle in Bogotá and fell into the road. I remember this incident because it nearly killed me. Bogotá drivers have no respect for human life. I doubt they use the phrase ‘hit-and-run’ – a ‘hit-and-pause’ would be more shocking. Strolling through Santiago, enjoying the sun and the leafy streets, I came… [Read more…]
February 9, 2012
I write this sitting in a log cabin, staring at an absurdly large bottle of red wine that I have just bought for less than 10,000 Colombian pesos. Yes, I am in Chile – the Patagonia end – slowly recovering from days of hiking, climbing and thermal spas. I have absurdly red cheeks and a… [Read more…]
February 1, 2012
People sometimes ask me why I don’t really use photographs on my blog. They’re right – it’s a case of one, or none when it comes to pictures. Perhaps I’m just lazy or perhaps I suspect that if a photograph really does tell a 1,000 words… why write anything? Besides, we’re all blessed with an… [Read more…]
January 31, 2012
Everyone I know loves drinking micheladas. Okay, that’s an exaggeration, but let’s just say there’s enough of a buzz right now for me to think we’re experiencing a michelada moment. I remember when gin and tonic became a hip and trendy drink almost overnight. I was 23 and, until that moment, gin had been the… [Read more…]
January 24, 2012
Last time I was at an airport, I pledged to quit my mañana habit. I promised to explore the cities where I lived and do all of the fun and interesting things usually left to tourists or, worse, tomorrow. Because you never know how long you will live somewhere. When I worked in newspapers a… [Read more…]
January 24, 2012
I can’t remember the last time I ate an oyster. In fact, I think the only time I’ve eaten the ‘food of love’ was in Paris, when I was 21-years-old and backpacking for the first time. All I remember is swallowing a mouthful of seawater, followed by a feeling of vague disappointment. What’s so great… [Read more…]
January 19, 2012
1. It is impossible to eat too much coconut rice. 2. I’d barely taken one step outside the airport before wondering why I’d ever owned a coat. 3. I’ve never seen a Cartagenero rush – not even when crossing a busy road. 4. No-one likes getting up early. But it’s easier knowing you’re going to… [Read more…]
January 16, 2012
Come on, who doesn’t love a shiny cabinet and something old and crumbly? Cartagena is rich in museums and old stuff generally, which means plenty of mornings can be spent wandering the various exhibits before enjoying a guilt-free ice-cream (everyone knows you should reward a cultured mind) Here’s a little guide: Inquisition Museum (could also… [Read more…]
February 21, 2012
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