A life in Colombia
1) “Si, si,” – pronounced as short syllable, accompanied by a wide smile, nodding head and the occasional “bueno”. Literal meaning: Yes. Actual meaning: Most probably. 2) “Si-i,” – pronounced as a medium-length syllable, alongside a faint shoulder shrug and small smile. Literal meaning: Yes. Actual meaning: Maybe. 3) “Siiiiiii,” – pronounced as a long […]
More“How long has it been since you last went on a date?” my friends asked me, trying to be kind. I made a noise that sounded like “Um-I-don’t-know” but it was apparently so pathetic they decided I needed a plan. I was ordered to write a list of four people in my life whom I […]
MoreI am not a fan of the Transmilenio. I’m talking about the overly celebrated transport system that emerged in Bogotá when plans for an underground metro faltered (said plans have since been resurrected, but don’t hold your breath) Transmilenio is essentially a series of large, bendy buses with their own lanes, which move between clearly-marked […]
More“If ever there is a time to have a functional boat, this is probably it,” my cousin’s husband, Simon, remarked drily as we crossed the river in our mouldy wooden vessel. It was rainy season in the Amazon and much of the forest was flooded. There we were, rowing into that dark green abyss having […]
MorePeople always ask me why I chose Colombia. Well, if there is one thing you can say about Colombia; it’s always interesting. A Colombian fable: “When God was creating the world, he put gold into South Africa. But there was some was left over, so he threw it into Colombia. “Then he put coal into […]
MoreThe immigration officer was tall and burly. “So are you planning to be here a while?” he barked, as he closed the door of his interrogation room. “Yes, please,” I squeaked. I was trying and failing to mask an internal scream of desperation. “Well… everything looks fine with your application,” he began. Thank. Goodness. I […]
MoreAnyone who has ever spent time applying for a visa will know the process does not put you in the best of moods. Still, I was feeling reasonably cheery this morning. Yes, I had a 5am alarm call. Yes, I was standing in the wet, bedraggled queue outside the office at 7am. But, by 8am, […]
More“You know, it’s funny,” I remarked to my friend Leonardo. “I’ve met people from all over the rest of South America, but I’ve never met anyone from Guyana, Suriname or French Guiana. “Maybe they don’t travel outside their countries.” Leonardo looked at me and smiled. “That’s because those countries are not in South America,” he […]
More“Do you need any help? Are you on your own?” the portly police officer asked me, looking concerned. “Yes, I’m alone,” I lied. It often makes life easier. In fact, I was attending my first ever bull fight – in the gloriously warm city of Medellin – with a photographer. He’d left to find his […]
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Banana Skin Flip Flops 