A life in Colombia
Peru
Rumble in the Jungle
“If ever there is a time to have a functional boat, this is probably it,” my cousin’s husband, Simon, remarked drily as we crossed the river in our mouldy wooden vessel. It was rainy season in the Amazon and much of the forest was flooded. There we were, rowing into that dark green abyss having […]
MoreI think you have a problem with your age
Latin men always ask the same question. “How old are you honey?” Well, I’m 28 and I refuse to lie. “Too old for you sweetheart,” I should probably reply, because I’ve noticed a rather disturbing trend in my trip around Peru and Bolivia. You may remember the tale of my 24-year-old tour guide. He almost […]
MoreReason #6: Because the kids will break your heart
“And who was President before that?” I repeated. It was a brilliantly sunny day but I was weak, hungover and slightly sad. It was my last day in Cusco and I had spent the afternoon saying inwardly emotional goodbyes to this gorgeous city whilst lazing in the square with my book. Except a dirty, skinny […]
MoreReason #5: Because Peruvian men are as brazen as the rest
I was about to climb into the shower when I heard the knock at my hotel room. “For goodness sake,” I grumbled. It had taken us three hours to climb out of the Colca Canyon, near Arequipa. I was cold, tired and more than a little damp from the drizzle. I yanked the door open […]
MoreReason #4: Because everyone loves Bogotá
“Where are you girls going?” a woman asked. The bus was packed and rattling along in the velvet darkness of the Sacred Valley. “Chinchero,” Isabel replied confidently. There was a loud cry and the bus lurched to a halt. “We’ve just passed it,” the woman said, looking worried. “You’re the only people going there. The […]
MoreReason #3: Because Peruvian dogs are smarter than they look
“That animal is spooky,” I muttered to my friend Isabel, as we climbed a narrow cobbled street behind Cusco’s main plaza. It was early and the dog was a skinny brown-and-white stray. He had attached himself to us in the square, tail wagging furiously. He had walked beside us until we reached the road, where […]
MoreReason #2: Because there is always a bed for a homeless girl
“Stay there, I’m going to ask them this time,” the taxi driver instructed, as we parked outside our fourth hostel in Miraflores, Lima. I slumped in the back seat. I was so shattered from the overnight bus, I hadn’t thought Peru’s capital would be so full of pre-Christmas travellers. The driver returned. “No rooms there,” […]
MoreReason #1: Because being blonde gets you everywhere
“Why don’t you sit next to me?” the middle-aged bus driver grinned as I hauled my rucksac onto the Huanchaco bus destined for Trujillo. I looked at him. I looked at the deserted bus. “Fine,” I agreed, climbing into the conductor’s seat. There was no point arguing. I had to take this bus to the […]
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Banana Skin Flip Flops 